• Astro 2.0 Inline Mute Cable

You can directly buy the version Maestro and you will obtain a specific access code. If you already have Orion-Astro? Order the code Maestro which allows you access to the function of Orion-Astro Maestro. You only have to pay the difference in the prices!

Apr 4, 2017 - July 15 - ORS-5: SensorSat - Minotaur-4/Orion 38 - Canaveral SLC-46 - 05:00. September 23 - JPSS-1 (NOAA-20), MiRaTA, Buccaneer RMM, EagleSat, CP 7, Fox 1B (RadFxSat), MakerSat 0 - Delta II 7920-10C - Vandenberg SLC-2W. NET March 20 - TESS [Astro EX-1] - Falcon 9 - Canaveral SLC-40. The astrology software Orion-Astro Maestro is the most advanced version of the range. Solar and lunar returns, transits, Indian astrology, humanist astrology, traditional astrology, geographic astrology, etc. More than 100 calculations! It is the most comprehensive of its kind. Charts and interpretations.Missing.

What does the version Maestro bring you?. A Professional License allowing the use of the program for commercial usage.

Triple and quadruple charts that are charts at 3 or 4 levels of choice, e.g. Return, natal, transit and secondary progressions. Separated triple and quadruple charts, which are 3 or 4 charts, obtained by choice, e.g. Return, natal, transit and secondary progressions. The possibility to modify the chart with its own criteria, colours and dimensions, to add new elements, etc.

A constructor of charts allows one to integrally construct one’s own chart. The calculations and supplementary methods: Solar returns according to Summerville, calculation of the transit of the Sun on the radical Ascendant, calculation of the transit of the Moon on the radical Ascendant, transits of the planets on the Ascendant or on a precise position, on the radical Ascendant, planetary returns, additional methods of calculation allow the dating of the solar returns, etc.

Localise to find the place where one should pass one’s birthday, in order to improve the quality of life. Localisation of the solar return and analysis of some 370’000 towns in the countries of choice, in order to know where to spend one’s birthday. Localise starting from the natal chart. Charts in local space, as a function of the place of observation. Gochars (Indian astrology). Localise the finding of the best place to live. Downloading of multiple charts in continuation – rapid, easy, perfect for those preparing courses.

An original method allowing the comparison of a number of event related techniques at the same time, Inter-calculations. Domification according to the 36 sectors of Gauquelin. Numerological path of life.

The 4 pillars of Chinese astrology. The biorhythms (3 curves, with corrected values). The Trutine of Hermes, in order to perfectly correct your charts. Rectification according to the planetary periods.

For those who practice Indian astrology, the detailed ashtakavarga, Bhimm et Sarv ashtakavarga. Table of the ephemerides of rare stars (black bodies, black Sun, planetary Nodes, etc.). Planetary chains, table of the links according to rulers.

My first AP setup was recommended by an astro retailer when I told them that I wanted to get into photography. It consisted of:. HEQ5 Pro Synscan. Skywatcher Black Diamond 120ED refractor. Skywatcher 0.85x reducer. Canon 1000D This was too much for starters if I'm honest and I wish that I'd got an 80ED instead. I soon realised the need to go for a guided setup and so purchased a second hand modded finder guider and a QHY5.

This and modding my 1000D helped to improve my imaging. Along with an Astronomik CLS clip in filter I was able to take exposures of many minutes. I found though that my focuser on the Skywatcher just wasn't holding and so changed it for a Moonlite. I soon realised that the temperatures in Spain made DSLR imaging unfavourable, the chip sensor was running in the 30's all the time and I couldn't combat noise:.

Atik 314L+ mono. Trutek Supaslim filter wheel. Baader LRGB filters and Narrowband filters The small chip was a dream and I enjoyed this combo.

But the focuser and the scope never really reached my expectations. The focuser was never orthogonical despite trying many things.

It was also around this time that I got the Altair Astro 10x60 finder guider - I found that as I needed a finder for alignment the modded system I'd had before didn't have enough adjustment to adequately align with the scope. I continued to use this with the QHY5. You can see from the right end of the picture attached to the rear end of the telescope the following 1) 0.63x Celestron reducer - This makes the telescope faster and also gives it a shorter focal length. 2) Celestron Radial Guider (Off Axis Guider) - These are used in longer focal length imaging. Inside the OAG is a prism that picks off some of the light coming through the scope and hopefully it will contain a star or two. The guide camera will pick up the stars (hence why such a sensitive camera is needed) and guide the scope. 3) Filter wheel 4) Atik 460EXM Change 6.5.

The big changes recently have been as follows: 1) Feather Touch Micro focuser on the C9.25 - What a fantastic piece of hardware, really makes focusing easy. 2) Starlight Express Active Optics unit - This image tracking and stabilisation unit will ensure that I get the very best detail from my images with the long focal length telescope. Whereas with traditional guiding, the mount makes a correction every 3 seconds to keep the guide star central, the Active Optics unit will make corrections with it's own tilt mirror every 0.1 seconds, so the guiding is actually being done using the tilt mirror in the unit rather than through the mount. 3) QSI690 mono camera with a built in filter wheel and Off Axis guider - While I have used Atik camera's until now and they have proved reliable, there were a couple of over riding factors that made me change my camera to a QSI.

I) It has the ability to cool to 40-45 degrees below ambient temperatures. Already in daytime temperatures of 28 degrees the camera has happily cooled to -10. This will be my default cooling temperature all year round.

Ii) It has an integrated 8 position filter wheel, so I can put all of my filters in and forget about them! They will also stay more dust free as the whole unit is sealed. Iii) A built in Off Axis Guider makes life easier as well.

The three pictures above show the imaging train now. When I swap over telescopes it will be a simple case of attaching the camera and that will be all. I will not be using the SXAO unit with my shorter refractor as I will gain no benefits at that short a focal length. I thought I'd take a picture with no cables and then one with all the cables in situ so you can get a feel for the level of difficulty I think I have made for myself! I hope to do some form of comparison with the Active optics unit in use and not in use soon.

This is the latest and I hope final upgrade! I decided that I liked the field of view that I got with my previous C9.25 scope, but never really found the stars satisfactory or the overall sharpness of the image. I sold this and replaced it with another second hand scope, an AstroTech 8' Ritchey Chretein Carbon Fibre scope. This has been fitted with a FeatherTouch focuser which is a good solid addition to the over all package.

I bought a Dual mounting bar from Altair Astro and decided that I'd try dual mounting both my scopes on the Avalon mount. To be honest, I think I am massively over the stated imaging weight for the Avalon, so I wasn't sure how it would cope with it. I am pleased to say that it's happily doing 30 minute subs as per normal in both scopes and producing round stars across the entire frame. This scope needed collimation, but after speaking to people on forums and also Ian King, I was pointed in the right direction for adjusting the Secondary mirror, Primary mirror and the focuser.

Astro 2.0 Inline Mute Cable

All this was done with a Cheshire eye piece - No lasers etc. I will be moving the camera between the two scopes as needed, so I don't need to accurately align the two scopes as I won't be using them imaging the same target at the same time. I have decided that the mount was probably very close to it;s weight limit with both scopes on it, so I have decided to just put one scope on at a time. I will mark up all the dovetails and weight positioning so that it's as easy as possible to move between the two telescopes. I will store them with everything on the imaging train, so that the only other swap over is the camera.

I am currently looking at - This enables me to do automatic meridian flips, and will plate solve to get the image back in the right place. When I get my auto focusers I can add that as well, so that it will be a complete capture package. So far, I have been very impressed with it. The is incredible - Download an image from anywhere on the net and you can set the part that you want to image and hey presto, you will be moved there. This is the fitted to the scope.

It replaces one of the focuser knobs and connects into the computer and the new that I am running. The scope now will focus without any manual input required from me - So no more sitting in the cold!

I have it set up in SGPro to re focus after every exposure (every 30 minutes) - So far the focus has been excellent. The focuser itself was fairly easy to fit and it loaded onto the computer without any issues. This has been a massive improvement over all to my imaging. Coupled with the SGPro software, I set a target, then the computer does everything else while I go to bed!! This change has been a long time coming.

I've had the camera and the scope for over 6 months. But I was enjoying the long focal length work so much that I didn't want to put the short focal length on the mount! This is 2x Takahashi FSQ85 (both reduced to 330mm and f3.9). The camera's are both Kodak 8300 sensors, one is a QSI683 and the other a G2-8300. This has been done for no other reason than cost. The G2-8300 has a built in 5 position filter wheel, so I have duplicated a couple of my filters as I didn't need a complete set in there. The field of view is of course exactly the same and I have a JTD adjustment saddle on one of the scopes for ease of alignment so I can ensure that they are both pointing to the same area of the sky.

This is an excellent piece of kit that I will soon do a review on as it has made life so very easy. At the moment there's no software that can run the two scopes together, so one id running the mount and the plate solving etc while the other just acts as a 'slave' and takes pictures all night. In that way I lose one sub as it is taking an image throughout the meridian flip. But that's OK! You can see the Moravian camera on the furthest scope in the picture. It's of a solid build and I'm pleased with it.

The cooling isn't quite as good as the QSI, but then it was almost half the price. This system ensures that if there is for example 10 hours of clear darkness, then I will collect almost double that. So potentially in the winter, 20 hours a night! That's almost a complete image in one night!!! The guiding is being done by a separate guide scope.

Off Axis guiders can't be used here as they will search around for the guide star when auto focusing for example and so that would ruin the images on the other scope. The alignment is critical to ensure that the maximum coverage between the 2 systems is achieved. Both scopes are auto focused using a lakeside focuser. Another scope and I have to ask why!!! Well this beautiful original TMB152/1200 refractor (Original Thomas Back number 109) would have been impossible to resist!! Yes its shorter than the ODK10 at 1200mm, but there are certainly some big benefits that I can see with this scope. A big refractor should offer some fantastic data opportunities with pinpoint stars.

There will be no diffraction spikes (which i really do struggle to like with reflectors). With the design it's a closed scope (unlike reflectors that are open to the elements with their mirrors) and so I have less worries about cleaning it during pollen season.

I'm hoping that flats will be more consistent as I always struggled with them using the ODK10. I have all the original paperwork too including the optics report. This is no slouch I can tell you!! On the back of the scope is the QSI683 (Kodak KAF8300 sensor) - The field of view is larger than that of the ODK10 and so this is a bit of a trial in a couple of ways. Can I live with the FOV offered by the KAF8300 and 1200mm scope?.

Will the resolution and detail be better with the refractor as there's no central obstruction. There's SO much to love about this scope!!!

It's a monster weighing in at almost 20kgs and it's a beast to man-handle. It's so long that I've had to set limits on my mount to prevent wall collisions. The focuser has been automated with a lakeside - It's a beautiful single speed MASSIVE rack and pinion focuser and I have no intention of changing it for anything else. It's runs like butter and is silky smooth.

Everything about this scope involves superlatives. There is absolutely NOTHING negative to say about it. With the camera on it's giving perfect round stars to the corners and there's no reducer or flattener involved.

SGP is controlling it as it should and last night I got it all set up to auto focus and auto meridian flip. With the advent of the two separate rigs, I needed to get another camera. As I was using the KAF8300 chips on the dual rig I had a fairly open book with the camera for the TMB. I wanted to get another QSI as I very much like the integrated filter wheel and OAG solution. I spent a lot of time with the FOV calculators, should I get another QSI683 or go for a smaller Sony chipped QSI690 sensor.

Eventually I decided to got for the QSI690 as it gave me a similar field of view as I'd had with the ODK10 and the KAF8300. I also decided to go for Chroma 3nm narrowband filters instead of Astrodons. I have been pleased so far with the Chroma narrowband filters. I went for 1.25' ones as they were the cheapest!!!!